Lighting: | Full sun, partial shade in the hottest part of midsummer. |
Temperature: | A reasonably hardy plant, to at least zone 5. Most hawthorns dislike extreme heat. Resistant to windy conditions. |
Watering: | Generous - do not allow the soil to dry out completely. Increase the amount of water in the summer. C. marshalii is an especially thirsty plant, as its native habitat is marsh, and will die if ever allowed to dry out. Hawthorn likes to be misted in dry weather, but avoid misting the flowers when in bloom. Moisture trays can be used to provide needed humidity, especially for C. marshalii. |
Feeding: | Every 14-30 days from spring-autumn, stopping for a month in midsummer. Use half-strength plant food or bonsai food. |
Repotting: | Every 1-3 years in early spring or autumn. Always leave a strong root system. Up to 1/3 of the root mass may be removed if the tree is a strong grower, but hawthorns are sometimes prone to rooting problems. |
Styling: | Prune back shoots to the first two leaves as necessary. Hawthorn grows quickly and needs constant pruning to kep inder control. The best time for major branch pruning is before the leaves come in, as the intricate structure of the branches may be clearly viewed. May be wired during spring and summer. Remove faded fruits and flowers; it may be necessary to remove some of the fruit from young bonsai to prevent the plant from exhaustion. |
Propagation: | May be grown from seed, but will not flower until at least 20 years old, which makes cutting grown and grafted plants the better option. Needs cold treatment before sowing, and the Samsons warn that it may take up to three years for the seeds to germinate. Air-layering may be used in spring, softwood cuttings in summer, and grafting in late winter or early spring. Crataegus laevigata 'Paul's scarlet' rarely fruits and is usually propagated by grafting. |
Pests etc.: | Gall-forming aphids, caterpillars, powdery mildew, scab, rust, leaf blight, bacterial fireblight. May expereince rooting problems. |
PESTS: In addition to the pests Brent mentioned, Malus sylvestris (as well as the Ginkos, Hawthorns, Quinces and probably other Malus species) seem to have a severe *allergy* to junipers. Being that junipers are a rather popular bonsai specimen comes this reminder: JUNIPERS AND APPLES DO NOT MIX! Silly me, in the middle of trying to shelter some Ginkos and a meticulously raft coiled crab apple from a severe storm this past summer, I tucked them under a large garden juniper. Any leaf or branch which came in contact with the juniper, shriveled-up and died within a couple of days. I mentally kicked and cursed my ownself for that careless act. I should know better, but I do forget when rushed. I am lucky that I noticed the infections right away and was able to save the Ginkos and the dragon crab. Only one end coil of the dragon crab died, and I was able to start a new coil to replace the one that died.
Hi! Just testing the commnet feature - it's a nice idea!
Please add the Parsely Leafed Hawthorn (Crataegus marshalli) to your list of hawthornes for tree of the week summary; there is a 7 tree forest of these trees in the National Arboretum American Collection, styled by Marian Borchers of the Tampa area. This information can be published in the Tree Care FAQ to be republished for general distribution. Information is from personal and local club experience, plus from "A Dictionary of Trees", First Edition, by Fred Walden, p 49. These trees grow in swampy areas here and along the St. Mary's River as far north as Folkston, Georgia, where several of mine were collected by shovel vaulting from one high spot to another to reach the little high spot the tree and its seedlings were growing on, much to the amusement of the other club members on the collecting trip. (The book says the range is from south to central Florida). They grow 15 to 18 feet tall in the wild with crooked trunks, grayish-brown, smooth, flaky bark that exfoliates exposing inner patches of bark, irregular crowns and small angular branches with twigs thar have slender spines. They have parsely-shaped leaves with variable amounts of notching in the feathery leaves that are glossy green with lighter undersides. Flowers are 1/2 inch wide with 5 white petals and pinkish stamens in clusters on short hairy stems, appearing in the early spring. The edible fruit is 1/2 inch long, ripens in late summer, and is bright yellowish-red with up to 3 seeds in each fruit. As bonsai: if one dries out even once, it is dead. They root from cuttings of soft and hard wood easily, as well as air layer. Seedlings can be collected easily. Larger plants can be collected while dormant in winter. These plants do well on pebble trays to prevent drying out in dry weather. We havn't collected seeds or tried sprouting them. Freeze hardiness is not known for certain; potted seedings were protected from weather below 40F and a well rooted hardwood cutting died this winter after the week of unprotected 19F weather on the ground under the bonsai benches covered with plastic. The trees grow in understory conditions, similar to Dogwood, so we have been providing part shade to the bonsai. We have not tried wiring or repotting locally yet. Pinching produces twigs easily Cathy Jacksonville, FL ================================================================= Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:38:48 -0500 From: Jesse VerellenAt 08:44 AM 7/30/96 GMT, you wrote: >Crataegus crus-galli: cockspur thorn - White 1/2 inch flowers > follow the leaves in spring. It has dull red fruit, and > excellent wine-red fall color.This hawthorne grows to 25 > feet, with 4 inch (!!!) long thorns, and is hardy in > zones 4-6. Also known as.. "Hog-apple" or "Newcastle thorn". Fruit persists until following spring. >Crataegus marshalli: parsley-leaved hawthorn - a very small tree, > growing only 15-18 feet in its natural habitat, the > marshy areas of Florida and Southern Georgia. Parsley- > shaped leaves, exfoliating grayish-brown bark, 1/2 inch > white flowers, edible yellowish-red fruit. The least > hardy of the hawthorns, it is probably best to keep C. > marshalii from freezing. Trunk diameter rarely exceeds 4" in the wild. >Crataegus mollis: downy hawthorn - a common tree in US parks and > cities, this tree gets its name from the downy > undersides of its leaves. It grows to 30 feet. Fruit of this one is scarlet or crimson with dark dots and is also edible. >Crataegus punctata: dotted hawthorn Grows to 30 feet. 1/2-3/4 inch 5 petaled white flowers appear in compact, hairy clusters in late spring. Fruit is dull red to yellow with whitish dots. These fruits (nutlets) mature and fall in autumn. Habitat: Moist soils of valleys and rocky upland slopes, especially on limestone. >Crataegus succulenta: fleshy hawthorn AKA "Long-spine Hawthorn" or "Succulent Hawthorn" It grows to 20 feet and has bright red fruits which mature in autumn. >Crataegus viridis: Winter King hawthorn, green hawthorn - > Rich green foliage, white flowers in late spring and > orange-red fruit until late winter. This large hawthorn > grows to 40 feet, and its spreading habit can be equally > as wide. Exfoliating bark. Hardy in zones 5-8. AKA "Southern Hawthorn" This one likes to keep its "feet" wet. (The additional information comes from NAS Field Guide to North American Trees.) Jesse Verellen Nashville, TN Bonsai is a matter of life and limb. ================================================================= Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 12:18:32 -0400 From: cathy At 20:48 7/30/96, you wrote: >Just a brief comment. I have found the parsley haw (C. marshalii) to >be extremely difficult (almost impossible) to transplant from the wild. >-- >Jim Lewis-- Hi Jim, The Jacksonville club has had some help doing things like collecting trees from a retired forester in Waycross, Georgia. He took us into the collecting area in the summer to locate potensai while we could all identify them easily with their leaves on them; we marked the trees we wanted with pink plastic tape and came back for them in the winter when they were dormant. The 8 seedlinge 4 inches high that I brought back did well- except when 2 were accidentally allowed to dry out and died. Cuttings 1/2 inch in diameter rooted and did well. I lost the rooted cutting this last winter when I did not realise that it was as tender as is was and left it under the bench which was covered with clear plastic during the week of 19F. The seedlings were (luckily) on one of the roll-around carts with tropical cuttings put into the garage, and were spared. I don't recall using mist on them, although I did have an operating mist bed then. It would not hurt for a week or 2, just after collecting them. I just called Waycross and Archie does not use mist on his; he just keets them in the shade all the time and keeps them moist at all times. Hope this helps. Cathy Jacksonville, FL ================================================================= Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 19:58:22 GMT From: Jim Harwood > At 20:48 7/30/96, you wrote: > >Just a brief comment. I have found the parsley haw (C. marshalii) to > >be extremely difficult (almost impossible) to transplant from the wild. > >-- > >Jim Lewis-- Jim, Don't give up just yet. Yes they are tough!! but I have had one in my grow-on bed for two years that has a 3+ trunk and was 7 to 8 ft. tall when I collected it. And yes the top has reduced itself somewhat, but is now stabilized (I think/hope). I'll finish working the top and maybe get it into a training pot next year. Other than requiring a fungicide spray periodically, it has been quite healthy. Good luck, Jim Harwood central Ark